2014年11月23日星期日

Women in fashion design demand recognition

Saudi authorities still do not recognize fashion design as a valid career path in the Kingdom despite the fact that many Saudi designers have earned relevant degrees from national and international universities, said an industry expert.
Rania Khogeer, member of the Jeddah Chamber of Commerce and Industry’s female fashion designers committee, said there are no specific licenses for such businesses and the Saudization drive has harmed the industry in the Kingdom because it is squeezing out expatriate tailors who were previously easily obtainable.
Speaking during the committee-organized First Forum of Fashion Designers on Saturday, she said: “There aren’t many experienced Saudi fashion designers in the country and not many Saudi women want to work as tailors (whom designers need to bring their creations to life).
“In return, many fashion designers seek to open their own businesses outside of the Kingdom where they can secure their intellectual properties and find experienced tailors and co-designers.”
It was disclosed at the forum that the fashion industry in the Kingdom is worth around SR13 billion.
The Jeddah Chamber of Commerce and Industry’s deputy secretary-general Muhyiddin Al-Hakami said the female fashion designers committee is the only one of its kind in Jeddah that links professional women designers with the chamber and tackles the obstacles they face.
The committee aims to unify professionals in the industry to create unique Saudi products that can rival their international counterparts. It also aims to produce designs with the combination of modernity and Hijazi heritage.
Committee head Umaimah Mahmoud Azzouz said: “The committee made sure to invite all of the talented and interested girls and women from schools, institutes and universities.
“The fashion design market can provide 70,000 job opportunities for Saudi females within the next five years. This will decrease the rate of female unemployment in the Kingdom by 18 percent.
“Statistics show the number of tailor shops in the Kingdom reached 70,000 last year. This is a clear indication that more funding and support should be granted to women, especially in the field of fashion and design. The committee aims to establish a national factory that utilizes local talent to produce internationally acknowledged designs.”
Designers are trying to advertise their designs locally and internationally by cooperating with companies through their corporate social responsibility programs.
The committee also aims to establish a fashion design academy to train over 500 Saudi women on an annual basis and employ over 5,000 of them. This can be done by founding more small and medium enterprises in the industry, said Azzouz.
The forum was packed with university students, designers and fashion design enthusiasts.
More than 300 Saudi female fashion designers gathered to discuss the obstacles faced by female designers, businesswomen and female fashion enthusiasts in the Kingdom. The recommendations of the forum will be forwarded to the concerned authorities.
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2014年11月20日星期四

High Museum to showcase Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen in fall ’15

Atlanta will grow more fashion forward in fall 2015 with Thursday’s announcement from the High Museum of Art that it will host a major exhibition of cutting-edge Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen.
Opening next November, “Iris van Herpen” will mark the Atlanta museum’s first presentation of fashion design. The High also will become the first U.S. museum to present a major show by van Herpen.
If new to the American museum world, the designer has burned a distinct path through the fashion world. Style trendsetters including Lady Gaga, Beyonce and Bjork have worn her clothes, and her lines have been modeled on Amsterdam, London and Paris runways.
“Iris van Herpen” will feature will feature 45 outfits selected from 15 collections she designed from 2008 through 2015.
Iris van Herpen's
The designer is known for interweaving traditional handwork with of-the-moment 3D-printing technology (with examples to be included in the show), computer modeling and engraving. To create her futuristic haute couture, she has collaborated with architects, engineers and digital design specialists.
Her sculptural designs often feature unusual materials such as magnets, umbrella ribs and synthetic boat rigging.
“Iris van Herpen’s work is an incredible fusion of artistic expression, craftsmanship and creativity,” High decorative arts and design curator Sarah Schleuning said. “The marriage of traditional, handcrafted designs and 21st-century technology makes her work innovative, dynamic and a signifier of a bold, new future for fashion design.”
van Herpen’s couture will be displayed on custom mannequins and accompanied by music and videos from her multimedia runway shows. Her words will be featured in accompanying wall texts, revealing the underlying concepts for each piece.
Co-organized with the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands, the exhibit will make its U.S. debut at the High, where it will remain view through May 2016 before continuing on a North American tour.
More on Iris van Herpen
Biographical sketch provided by the High Museum: Iris van Herpen (b. 1984 in Warmel, the Netherlands) had an intuitive appreciation of fashion and art as a youth and became interested in designing clothes while attending the Preparatory Course Art & Design at the Artez Institute of the Arts Arnhem.
van Herpen went on to study Fashion Design at Artez and held internships with Alexander McQueen in London and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam. Her 2006 graduation collection “Machine Jewellery” demonstrated her interest in the visualization of elusive concepts and intangible elements and her inventiveness in material use and treatment. A year after graduating, van Herpen began designing womenswear collections under her own name.
Through her extensive interdisciplinary research and collaborations with other artists, van Herpen has developed a unique and avant-garde style aesthetic that has been lauded by Time magazine, InStyle and Women’s Wear Daily, among other notable publications.
In 2011, at age 27, she became the youngest member ever to join the exclusive official calendar of the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, and in 2014 she was awarded the highly prestigious ANDAM Award. Her designs are currently featured in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
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2014年11月16日星期日

Venus Williams nurtures love of design

This is what you get when you hire Venus Williams as your interior decorator: an enthusiastic designer who has traveled the world, drawing inspiration from Moscow to Beijing, but never quite had time to complete formal training; a team of professionals working with her; and a place on a client list that includes celebrities and professional athletes.
And, of course, you get Venus Williams.
She’s one of the great tennis players of all time: seven Grand Slam singles titles, an Olympic gold medal, a woman who changed the face of modern tennis. Her father gave her a racket when she was 4 years old and told her she was going to become the best player in the world.
“Most people decide what they want to do later in life, and some people know really early,” she says. “For me, what I was doing was already decided. Thankfully, I liked it.” But that was her father’s dream, not hers. “This was like when you get to make your own choice about what you love.”
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And Williams loves, loves, loves designing. She talks about space planning, construction, lighting and fabric swatches like nobody’s business. In fact, it is a business: For more than a decade, she has quietly run an interior design firm in her adopted home of Florida, both capitalizing on and overcoming her famous name.
She recently unveiled her latest work in the District of Columbia, the renovated Southeast Tennis and Learning Center, an after-school tennis, arts and academic program created for children. Other people at the gala saw her as the tennis legend; she was there as the person responsible for the look and feel of the space.
“As a designer, you design and it’s beautiful and people feel great when they walk in – but how have you changed the world?” she asks. “For us, this sort of project means so much to us because it’s going to impact so many lives.”
Love of creativity
Williams had been playing tennis for 14 years – and was two years away from her first Wimbledon and U.S. Open singles titles in 2000 – when a letter arrived on her doorstep when she was 17 or 18. She can’t remember if it was addressed to her or was a random solicitation, but it invited her to study art and design at a technical school in Tampa, Florida.
“Oh, I want to go to design school!” she remembers telling her mom. She loved being creative: She grew up sewing and still has the homemade skirts she made for her first professional tournament at age 14.
Tampa was too far from their southern Florida home, so her mother vetoed that plan. But she allowed Williams and younger sister Serena to enroll in a Fort Lauderdale, Florida, arts school, where they both studied fashion design. Between training, practice and traveling the world for tennis, they learned pattern-making, clothing construction, textile design and computer programming.
It was not, as one might guess, a calming counterpoint to their grueling day job. “School was not relaxing. It was intense,” Williams says. “I had breakdowns just like any other student. I worked a little bit slower because I liked everything perfect.” The other students weren’t fazed by their famous classmate because “everyone was so stressed out that they didn’t really care.” Williams graduated in 2007 with a degree in fashion design and launched a small sportswear line called EleVen to a mixed reception.
But it was interior design that really captured her imagination. While traveling, she would slip away to explore art and museums – in Moscow, for example, she loved the intricate ceilings of St. Basil’s Cathedral. She began reading books on interior design and consulted with professional decorators.
In 2002, after finding a partner who could handle the business while she was on the road, Williams founded V Starr Interiors, a small boutique firm in Jupiter, Florida, not far from where her family lived after moving from California when she was 10 years old. The real estate market was booming; she thought it was the perfect time to try to break into the field.
Today, the firm has four full-time professional designers, all women. The operation is housed in a small townhouse with a discreet sign out front, but there is no hint of the famous owner until you step into the foyer, where there are small photos and two tennis prints. The second floor is filled with fabric samples; the third with a workroom where all the designers sit together. Williams doesn’t have an office; when she’s in town, she perches at the main worktable with her laptop.
Williams is the only one on the team without a degree in interior design. She studied it for two years – “I would sit there and draw a line, then erase it, and draw it and erase it. I drove myself nuts” – before finally deciding she could be more effective to the company if she got a business degree. (She’s working on it.) It was, all things considered, the practical choice: Williams, now 34 years old, heads an estimated $60 million empire.
But she’s deeply involved in all of the design projects, emailing ideas back and forth while on the road. V Starr began with residential work.
Future in design
On a trip to Beijing earlier this year, Williams sought out an outdoor antique market she had visited years before. She remembered they had “amazing” stones and minerals, and wanted to bring back something special for a custom door design the firm was creating. No one spoke English, and no one really understood her Chinese.
“I know how to say ‘too expensive,’ ” says Williams, who brought back three geodes – one for the door, two for herself.
She just sold her midcentury Hollywood Hills house – a project she never had time to finish – and the plans to build a dream home in Florida are on hold. “It’s always a dream house until you realize you don’t want all the things you dreamed,” she explains. “Why am I doing this? I just want a closet and a gym.”
For the moment, tennis is still her top priority: more majors, a spot with the Washington Kastles, and one more shot at gold at the 2016 Olympics. She’ll play as long as she’s healthy and having fun. After that? Designing full-time.
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2014年11月14日星期五

Pratt launches fashion, design, tech accelerator in Pfizer Building

A crowd of more than 500 people attended the opening celebration for Pratt Institute’s Brooklyn Fashion and Design Accelerator (BF+DA), which launched Nov. 11 with a reception headed by Pratt Institute President Thomas Schutte and BF+DA Executive Director Debera Johnson. This entrepreneur incubator — designed to bridge the gap between college and earning a living in the real world — is located on the seventh floor of the former headquarters of pharmaceutical giant Pfizer on Flushing Avenue on the South Williamsburg and Bed-Stuy border. The building is already home to many thriving food and beverage start-ups, including Kombucha Brooklyn, Village Fishmonger and Liddabit Sweets.
Currently at 21,000 square feet with room for further expansion, the BF+DA’s “tenants” pay rent for their space and use of amenities, which includes a 3-D rapid prototyping center, textile and technology labs, a showroom, retail space and conference rooms. The space includes 30 studios. Not all tenants are Pratt Institute alumni, and the businesses are not limited to being fashion or design-oriented. Some are focused on technology, developing products and materials.
Pratt Institute’s Brooklyn Fashion and Design Accelerator (BF+DA) launched Nov. 11 with an opening reception and celebration. Speakers at the event included (l.to r.): Peter Barna; Thomas F. Schutte; Nina Zilka; Debera Johnson; Brooklyn Deputy Borough President Diana Reyna; state Sen. Martin J. Golden; and Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce President and CEO Carlo A. Scissura. Photo Credit: Barbara Anastacio for Pratt Institute
“It’s about jobs, jobs, jobs,” Dr. Schutte said in his opening remarks. “It’s about economic development, being creative and being able to contribute to society.” Schutte spoke passionately, but was reticent to hog the spotlight away from BF+DA Executive Director Johnson and guest speakers Deputy Borough President Diana Reyna, a native of the area, who remembered the economic impact of Pfizer’s closure after 150 years of operating in Brooklyn, and state Sen. Martin J. Golden, who spoke about the importance of building the local economy via micro entrepreneurship.
BF+DA was launched with more than $2 million in funding pledges from Pratt Institute, the state of New York, New York City and the Borough of Brooklyn. The investment for businesses in the area stemmed fears that Pfizer would add to the condo-ization of Brooklyn’s working class neighborhoods, thus further cutting job opportunities. The BF+DA’s motto is “Make The Future Here” and, naturally, it comes written with a hashtag: #MaketheFutureHere.
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2014年11月5日星期三

Oscar de la Renta’s Legacy

On Monday afternoon, friends of fashion designer Oscar de la Rentagathered at his funeral in Manhattan. Guests included Hillary Clinton, First Lady of the Dominican Republic Candida Montilla, Matthew Broderick, Hugh Jackman, Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Kors,Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan, Vera Wang, and Valentino Garavani. Here, two who knew the designer in very different contexts explain what he meant to them.
Cornelia Guest, New York author and socialite:
“Having grown up with Oscar de la Renta, I have countless memories of this amazing man. He was part of my life for as long as I can remember. When I was growing up we loved to go on Sundays to play miniature golf. I would move everyone’s balls and no one could figure out who was doing it—until Oscar figured out it was me. When I was graduating from day school at the age of 12 or 13, my mother [CZ Guest] took me to meet with Oscar. He gave me a lovely white peasant blouse and eyelet skirt. Everyone else had on these little dresses and mine was so special. All my life when I have needed something really beautiful, he was where I would go. He made my mother a red Christmas dress, which she gave to me when I was in my 20s. I wear it every Christmas Eve and this year I will be sure to give a little toast to them both.”
Oscar de la Renta’s Legacy
Nikki Kaia Lee, a junior at Savannah College of Art and Design:
“My story with Oscar begins when I was 13, the year I was diagnosed with thyroid cancer that spread throughout my throat, chest and lymph nodes. The doctors planned a radical treatment, and I was dreading it.
Then, Ginny Branch Stelling, Peter Hale Cooney III, and Chelsea Rose Cook—SCAD fashion design alumni who had befriended me during my first round of treatment— offered a week of immersion in their fashion world in New York City right before my surgery. They called everyone they knew in the industry and their efforts soon reached Bridget Foley of WWD. She immediately began to arrange a dream experience: the chance to meet many top designers, including Alexander Wang and Oscar de la Renta.
Over lunch in his studio that week, Oscar shared that he was also battling cancer. Although I have no celebrity status or vast wealth, Oscar showed me great respect and kindness. Seeing my joy in his Spring 2009 collection, he selected a dress and custom-tailored it to me, saying a couturier never lets a woman leave the atelier without fitting her dress to perfection. Before leaving the studio that afternoon, Oscar offered me an internship, which was the most generous gift of all, since he knew how hope was an essential path to recovery. That summer, I came to understand the Japanese concept of “on,” the sense of gratitude combined with the desire to give back, as an innate sense of obligation that recognizes the support and love of others. They say that legends never die, so Oscar will forever live on, in my heart and in my mindfulness of passing on to others what he has passed on to me.”
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2014年11月3日星期一

Fashion world bids farewell to designer Oscar de la Renta

The fashion world mourned the loss of one of its greatest designers on Monday at the private funeral of Oscar de la Renta, who died last month at 82 of cancer.
The tall Dominican-born de la Renta dressed New York socialites, Hollywood stars and American first ladies during a career that spanned five decades.
Young women in black dresses equipped with digital clipboard checked in impeccably dressed guests, including designers Valentino and Diane von Furstenberg, as they entered the Church of St Ignatius Loyola on Manhattan's Upper East Side.
Fans and photographers were kept behind police barricades that stretched a city block at the large, imposing church on Park Avenue.
"He was an icon and a guru of fashion and a wonderful man who changed people's lives in fashion," Kim Wolfe, 44, said of de la Renta.
"His couture and his design were really created for the sophisticated lady, not necessarily of the 21th century, but of a lady that once was."
De la Renta died at his home in Connecticut on Oct. 20 surrounded by his family, friends and more than a few dogs. As news of his death spread, Hollywood stars and former first ladies, whom he dressed, expressed their condolences.
Former President Bill Clinton and Hillary Clinton, who wore a plum-colored de la Renta gown to her daughter Chelsea's wedding in 2010 and a beaded gown for an Inaugural Ball, credited de la Renta's exquisite taste for elevating American fashion.
Nancy Reagan praised him as a fashion legend and Barbara Bush said, "We will always remember him as the man who made women look and feel beautiful."
De la Renta's designs were known for their detail, fabrics and embroideries. His classic creations ranged from fitted suits to feminine pastel and floral print dresses, to elaborate, flowing ball gowns that were favorites on the red carpet.
Actresses Sarah Jessica Parker, Amy Adams, Jennifer Garner, Tina Fey, Cameron Diaz and Oprah Winfrey chose his gowns for award ceremonies.
Most recently, de la Renta created the lace, off-the-shoulder wedding gown worn by London-based human rights lawyer Amal Alamuddin for her September wedding to actor George Clooney in Venice, Italy.
De la Renta was also known for his philanthropy, particularly in the Dominican Republic, where he was born and had a home. In 1982 he established La Casa del Nino for underprivileged children there.
President Danilo Medina led the nation in mourning and praised the designer for changing the lives of thousands of children in the country.
"My greatest strength is knowing who I am and where I come from - my island," the designer is quoted as saying.
Dominican Foreign Minister Andrés Navarro credited de la Renta for being "a permanent ambassador of our country abroad" and for raising the international profile of the Caribbean nation and attracting investors and tourism.
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